Wildlife Holiday Photo Journals
Wildlife Holiday Photo Journals
18th May 2022
A 6.00 start on the 18th May 2022 and Jason Nichols and I set off for Bempton Cliffs in East Yorkshire.
Once out of Norfolk, we travelled through Lincolnshire on a tried and tested route that would lead to the Humber Bridge at Barton upon Humber. It was a pleasant drive in the sunshine and once out of Horncastle we travelled along undulating roads through the Lincolnshire Wolds, an area well known to me, as I used to live in a small village (Croxton) in what was then South Humberside until it was changed back to Lincolnshire.
Along the approach road from Barnetby Top to the Humber Bridge itself we saw at least four Badger road casualties; a stark reminder that roads without underpasses for wildlife are an absolute death trap to crepuscular and nocturnal animals.
Over the bridge and into Yorkshire we were rather surprised to see that there was no sign of weed-killer (brown vegetation) along the roads with their well vegetated verges and in many places hedges left to mature. Perhaps Great Yarmouth Borough Council should take note on how to manage hedges and grassland!
Finally, we arrived at the overflow car park at Bempton and made our way passed the visitor centre and along the track to the cliffs, seeing Tree Sparrows along the way, a feature of Bempton, shame they have to put silver bangles on their legs, but that’s the RSPB for you!
I have visited Bempton Cliffs on many occasions, but never tire of the sudden cacophony of sound from the breeding seabirds that greets you at the edge of the cliffs, which you are unaware of until you reach that point; magical, especially if it’s your first visit to a seabird colony.
The chalk cliffs and ledges are home to an important array of species. The main attraction here is the Gannets, Kittiwakes, and Auks; Puffins, Guillemots and Razorbills, not forgetting the ‘poor man’s' Albatross the Fulmar, which leads me nicely on to another relatively recent attraction here; a Black-browed Albatross!
Whilst I am not going to disguise the fact that the Albatross was part of the attraction for the two day visit; the other seabirds here stand on their own as an enticement and I love photographing the birds here, particularly the Gannets, which soar close to the top of the cliffs and above your head at times.
All three Auks were seen, flying past at speed, whilst many were on the water far below. Fulmars and Kittiwakes were flying past and coming ever closer and a couple of Shags were seen flying over the sea.
We had been here in the same area for about 4 hours and decided to leave and come back later after checking in at our accommodation in nearby Bridlington. Ironically, on reaching Bridlington the news came through that the Albatross had shown up!
The decision to stay or leave when trying to see something that has no apparent rhyme or reason for when it appears, is always a bit of a lottery, but another more annoying set-back was about to happen to our two-day break in Yorkshire!
We arrived at our accommodation (booked through Booking.com) for the night in Bridlington and attempted to check in. However, the attempts were futile and to cut a long and very annoying story short after about 18 telephone calls to the owners and multiple attempts at ringing either one of the two door bells or both we had to make a decision about what to do next.
Between Jase and me we decided to cut our losses (at least for the time being!) and try and find somewhere else. So Jase looked at Late Rooms and found a possible destination at Scarborough.
We arrived at Scarborough and a deal was done for two rooms for the night at a reasonable price, but more than what we had originally booked. Nevertheless, unlike the look of the derelict boarding house with ‘apartments’ at Bridlington, this was newly decorated and was very acceptable to both of us and we both agreed that the choice we had made was the right one.
Along with our own accommodation, there was accommodation for Kittiwakes opposite our place of refuge for the night at the ‘Grand Hotel’, with the Gulls nesting in every conceivable place possible on the face of the hotel. Other nests were on our side of the road, but I noticed that the Kittiwakes were being discouraged by the placing of metal spikes; but that wasn’t stopping them totally!
Now checked in successfully for the second time of asking, we decided on a drive around part of the Yorkshire Moors. As usual great scenery up here and after a bit of ‘exploring’ we came across our first Red Grouse; a female laying low in the Heather. This was followed by at least 19 more Red Grouse in a relatively small area.
Also here were Lapwings and their attempts to distract the car soon led to seeing a total of 5 chicks from two pairs.
Other species of note here were: 2 Mistle Thrush, Song Thrush, 2 Curlew, a Brown Hare and several young Rabbits, which I always love to see. It has to be remarked upon that there were quite a few road-
casualties including feathered and furry youngsters; cars go very fast along these roads, too fast for an important area for upland nesting species of both birds and mammals!
Back in Scarborough a meal at a well known local ‘restaurant’ was followed by turning in for the night after a very long day for both of us.
19th May 2022
Exiting the accommodation in Scarborough at 6.00 (19th) the air was filled with the sound of Kittiwakes on the neighbouring buildings and the local Herring Gulls were still minding Jason’s car for him; leaving him a few souvenirs!
Back at Bridlington we made our way down to the viewing point best to see the Albatross from in the hope it would appear early in the morning like it sometimes did.
Some more photography ensued, but there was no sign of the Albatross, so after sometime we walked back northwards to visit some of the other viewing areas.
Kittiwakes were collecting mud for their nests from the cliff edges and on a field on the cliff top and a Corn Bunting were also seen here.
From one of the ‘northern’ viewpoints we were able to photograph mutual preening by a pair of Razorbills and also a Puffin preening and Jase took videos of both of these events.
After leaving and on our way back to Norfolk; you guessed it the Albatross turned up! Not as easy to see as some might think. Probably best to take a tent and stay put for as many days as needed! However, it was a good trip, enjoyed by both of us and as a footnote, after a few ‘direct’ emails we got our money back for the property in Bridlington. Many thanks are due to Jase for driving and for making the journey possible and indeed his enhancing videos used in the article.
The Spanish Pyrenees, Belchite Plains & the Ebro Delta
6th-12th May 2018
6th May
A flight from Luton Airport at 7.00 saw Jason Nichols and myself arrive at Barcelona Airport around mid-morning. Drizzle and grey skies are not necessarily the weather you would associate with Spain but today that was very much the case.
We were supposed to be collected by the car hire firm when we arrived, but there was no sign of them and it was at least another hour before they finally showed up, after several telephone calls by Jason!
To make the situation worse, when we arrived at the car hire depot, the Jeep we had hired was not ready and a further frustrating wait ensued, making far less time for our proposed itinerary than anticipated.
Finally, we were on our way en-route to the Pyrenees, heading towards Lleida seeing House Sparrows, many Common Swifts, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Spotless Starling, Alpine Swift, Feral Pigeon, Wood Pigeon, Cattle Egret, House Martin, 2 Black Kite, White Stork, 4 Griffon Vultures, Magpie, Red-rumped Swallow and 3 Mallard.
A stop at a road junction 7 km from Monzon, along the A22 gave us time to check our bearings, but also found some interesting insects amongst the vegetation, which at first glance would not have looked very promising! However, there are nearly always animals in all sorts of terrain and we were in Spain so a bit of exploring was definitely worth undertaking.
The first insects of interest I found were two Moths, a Yellow Belle Aspitates ochrearia and a Diamond-backed Moth Plutella xylostella.
These were followed by a Froghopper Cercopis intermedium, Leaf Beetle Lachnaia paradoxa and then a Polistes species, which appears to be a European Paper Wasp Polistes dominula nesting on a reed stem. Just before continuing on our journey, a Nightingale was heard singing and a Black Kite flew over.
By now there was blue skies and sunshine, which as always highlights a Bee-eater’s plumage; the first birds we saw on entering the Sierra De Guara. At least two Bee-eaters were seen and Nightingale song was heard everywhere as we continued our journey and the fluting song of a Golden Oriole was also heard somewhere nearby, but as what usually happens; the singer remained hidden!
An excursion into the vegetation, which included some striking Pyrenean Iris Iris latifolia
lining the minor roads, also found some very interesting insects.
A Bee-fly was suspiciously like the Dark-edged Bee-fly found in the UK and was designated to be a Bombylius fimbraiatus
(Dark-edged Bee-fly), but a Hoverfly, possibly an Eristalis species could not be confidently identified from the resultant photographic images.
A Moroccan Orange-tip Anthocharis belia
was seen fluttering along the road verge and a Wall Brown Lasiommata megera
was also here, as were three species of ‘Blue’ butterflies: Adonis Blue Lysandra bellargus, Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus and Panoptes Blue Pseudophilotes panoptes, which coincided with Thymus plants, possibly Thymus zygis, which are its food plant.
Some tadpoles were found in a temporary pool, but could not be identified.
As we drove through the Pyrenees (on the way to our accommodation for the next three days at Salinas de Sin) we not only passed through a stunning landscape, with very turquoise blue rivers and Embalses but also found animals of interest on the way.
It was so good to see colonies of House Martins nesting, where they would have originally made their nests before human structures, on the rock face and 2 Alpine Swifts soared overhead. A Griffon Vulture came into view and then a ‘worn’ Golden Eagle flew around the edge of the mountains, just in front of us. Crag Martins were also seen, along with Serin, Corn Bunting, Spotless Starling and our first Hoopoe of the trip.
Just beyond Ainsa, Great Crested Grebe, Blackbird and Carrion Crow were added to the avian species, before reaching a dam where 4 Yellow-legged Gulls were a bit of a surprise. A Grey Heron, Mallard, Stonechat and Nightingale were also recorded before reaching our accommodation at Salinas de Sin.
The apartment was very comfortable, overlooking the turquoise fast flowing river and the owner chatted at considerable length to Jason (whilst I explored the river in the company of a small dog with bite marks on his nose) albeit somewhat reluctantly on Jason’s part, but rather amusing for me!
A visit to the nearest hostelry that evening also resulted in 2 Tawny Owls being heard and 2 unknown species of Bat being seen.
It’s funny what we will eat whilst in Spain; I refer to the dry pieces of bread placed on the table prior to the ordered meal. Maybe it’s because we are just hungry, but I am not convinced we would choose to eat these pieces of a bread stick in the UK!
7th May
The day began at our base at Salinas de Sin, where a Song Thrush was singing. Across from our accommodation the fast flowing river produced sightings of both Dipper (in this instance Black-bellied Dipper) and Grey Wagtail.
En-route to Ainsa a Collared Dove was seen and between Ainsa and Jaca a Red Kite appeared.
The route from Jaca to Hecha heard Nightingales singing almost every 100 metres and a Corn Bunting was here also. Also very prevalent here in the pines were the web tents of Pine Processionary Moths Thaumetopoea pityocampa, something, which was commonplace during the rest of our stay in the Pyrenees.
The main destination of the day was the Hecho Valley, which was to be an absolute delight! The route up until the ‘barrier’ is drivable, stopping off at various places along the way to explore the mountain slopes and mixed woodland.
A Great Tit was seen at the beginning of the valley, followed by 2 Ravens. An Egyptian Vulture appeared and flew along the valley edge before landing on a concrete pylon, where a Black Kite flew over above the vulture.
A Green Woodpecker was heard (although there was something different about the call) and then seen as it perched on a stone wall. Although it was viewed and photographed against the light it was quite apparent that this was the Iberian subspecies sharpei
and the solid black moustache depicts it as a female.
A male geometer moth (feathered antennae) was found and is possibly a Common Heath Ematurga atomaria
or similar species. This was followed by the discovery of a Wryneck perched in a tree above what appeared to be a likely nest site. The woodpecker spent a considerable amount of time in the tree, where it wing stretched and flicked its wings in what was possibly part of a display. The wryneck stayed for such an extensive spell that it allowed a Wall Brown Lasiommata megera to be photographed before resuming photography with the wryneck.
Fleeting views of several butterflies ensued, with an Orange-tip sp. and a black and White sp. possibly a Marbled White sp. But with no photographs, we will never know!
Chaffinch, Garden Warbler, Goldfinch, Long-tailed Tit and Blue Tit were all of note as we progressed up the valley and at a fast-flowing stream 2 Grey Wagtails and a Dipper were seen.
At a small village a Magpie followed into the notebook along with a singing male Black Redstart and a Wren. A Large White Pieris brassicae
was found on what appeared to be Apple blossom as was a Bee species, but due to the lack of images cannot be identified.
House and Crag Martins were around a bridge and both Nightingale and Blackcap were recorded. This was followed by a spiralling ascent through the mountain forest seeing a Jay and a Song Thrush on the way up.
We parked the vehicle and walked through the mountain woodland over trickling streams and passing an array of flora, including Primulas, but their exact identification Primula veris
Cowslip Primula elatior
Oxlip or Primula veris x vulgaris
False Oxlip could not be determined, along with several other plants.
A mountain refuge was then seen; De Huesca Refugio and a walk across an open area, a pasture meadow found the place to view, what was described as a good Wallcreeper site. The rock face was a considerable distance away from the nearest viewpoint and as you might guess no small fluttery moth-like bird was seen!
However, a Lammergeier was found resting in a small recess in the mountain, which then flew alongside the mountain. A really good find by Jason and he also saw another one of these Bearded Vultures, whilst I was attempting to record some very distant images of the original lammergeier.
Another vulture, this time a Griffon flew just over our heads and an Iberian Green Woodpecker was heard calling and drumming, a Goldcrest was seen and whilst I was elsewhere Jason saw 2 Rock Buntings.
Two small finches flying over immediately drew my attention and we watched where they landed and found what I suspected; Citril Finches Serinus citronella. At least 4 were seen and this was the first sighting of this species for both of us, although I had seen the endemic Corsican cousin some years ago.
Two Crested Tits followed as did a Coal Tit and a calling Common Cuckoo. A Nuthatch was a bit of a surprise find and a Raven ‘cronked’ its way over the mountain sides.
The next ‘black bird’ was very special, albeit a brief glimpse. The black shape, approximately the size of a Jackdaw was seen as it flew down from a pine and was subsequently seen again, when it done the same thing, after failing to spot it actually in a tree. This was undoubtedly a Black Woodpecker! On the descent back down the road another was seen, again just a brief glimpse.
Back in the valley we entered an area what was signposted as Valles Occidentales. Here a Dipper was photographed as it searched for food and a Grey Wagtail was also seen on another stretch of the river near a bridge, whilst nearby a male Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni
was nectaring on a Dandelion sp.
More attractive plants were found here, including several species of Orchids. Elder-flowered Orchid Dactylorhiza Sambucina
in both its colour forms were here along with Trumpet Gentian Gentiana Clusii, Spring Gentian Gentiana verna, Ranunculus gouanii
and Potentilla aurea.
A greenish coloured Lizard was also seen here dashing from one rock to the next, making it very difficult to photograph, but some images were achieved and these revealed the lizard to be Poadarcis muralis
Wall Lizard.
7 Red-billed Choughs were seen searching for food on the valley meadows and Yellowhammer, Marsh Tit, Robin and a splendid male Red-backed Shrike were also seen.
A marvellous mammal to find here were Marmots, the first sightings of these mammals for both Jase and myself. Marmots became extinct in the Pyrenees around the end of the last ice age but they were apparently reintroduced by French hunters in 1948 from the Alps, as a food source for golden eagles because the eagles were taking too many chamois! Still, an ideal habitat for the Marmots, however they came to be here and not so dissimilar from other areas in Europe they are found in
Further along the valley, a scan around the mountain sides found another mountain speciality; Pyrenean Chamois Rupicapra pyrenaica. Again, another new mammal species for both of us and at least 14 were seen grazing on the mountain slopes.
At the end of the drivable route (‘the barrier’) the spectacular scenery continued.
We then slowly made our way back along the route to the start of the Hecho Valley, but stopped for another enjoyable photo session with the Marmots.
A yellow blaze of colour on the side of the mountains revealed wild Daffodils Narcissus pseudonarcissus
growing in profusion; in the words of Wordsworth: ‘A host, of golden daffodils’.
A Tiger Beetle, which appears to be the same species, found in the UK, Cicindela campestris
Green Tiger Beetle was found and after one last scenic photo of the valley we headed back to our apartment, after a thoroughly enjoyable and wildlife-rich day in one of the best ecosystems I have visited!
8th May
A Cormorant was seen flying along the river from our base at Salinas De Sin, before heading out for another day in the Pyrenees.
A short distance along the road a Black Redstart was seen and a Nightingale heard at Plan, before ascending up the narrow mountain road to Chia, through the mountainside woodland.
There was not too much of note on the way up the mountain, maybe due to the rather dull weather conditions and our intention to carry on over the mountain was thwarted by snow lying thickly on the road ahead.
Whilst stopped here I noticed something on the outside of the windscreen, which I couldn’t quite work out if it was just a piece of vegetation or an insect of some kind. After a few minutes, of occasionally looking at the said ‘item’ on the windscreen it moved, it was a very pale Spider! Which, species of ‘montane arachnid’ is yet to be determined but an interesting find nevertheless.
In order to get to our destination, the Cerler Ski Lift, we had to make a detour and before that, had to go back to where we started at Plan. However the descent was much more productive!
A Coal Tit, Nuthatch and Jay were seen before seeing our first Red Squirrel. A Chaffinch, Song Thrush, a pair of Bullfinch and a Dunnock followed before getting our second sighting of Red Squirrel, this time seeing two squirrels.
A male Pied Flycatcher was a nice find and then the song of an Iberian Chiffchaff was heard nearby, followed by the calls of Crossbills, which were located in the tops of the pines. At least 8 crossbills were seen, most probably Common Crossbills, but there is a suggestion from research that the crossbills here maybe a different species due to their preference for Black Pines Pinus nigra.
A flock of crows flew over, numbering at least 30 birds. It was clear that these were Choughs and on examining the resultant photographs they were identified as Alpine Choughs.
A Mistle Thrush, a Common Cuckoo calling, male Common Redstart, Common Whitethroat were seen before another brief glimpse of a Black Woodpecker, a really productive descent!
We stopped at a Repsol garage at Castejon De Sos along the N260 for provisions, but even in this built-up area Natural History interest was close at hand!
A large dark bee was investigating the holes in a concrete structure, which was a Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea. So whilst Jase was in the garage shop a spot of Bee-photography took place!
Crag Martins and a White Wagtail were seen a little way up the road at Garganta Deventamillo and a Short-toed Eagle carrying prey (which appeared to be a Lizard species although a small Snake can’t be ruled out) and Griffon Vultures were also seen.
At an Embalse at Eriste, just before Benasque a Cormorant and Mallard were seen before arriving at the beginning of the road climbing up to the Cerler Ski Lift.
The road up to the Cerler Ski Lift was an easy way to get relatively high up in the mountains. Obviously, going on to even higher altitude would have given us more chance of connecting with high altitude species e.g. Snow Finch but at this time of year no ski lifts were running. Nevertheless, this was going to be a very interesting ascent.
A male Wheatear (Northern) was seen at the beginning of the road and as we climbed higher at least 6 Marmots, 2 Roe Deer and a Fox were seen. A male Blackbird followed and then a male Red-backed Shrike.
At the top (the ski lift) snow was laying and a Water Pipit was searching for food at the edges of the snow, where it was melting. Yellowhammers were also here and several Black Redstarts flitted around the buildings and the various man-made structures.
In fact it was from one of these buildings that the song of a Rock Thrush was coming from and there on the roof perched a splendid male Rock Thrush. A female Rock Thrush was then seen looking for food in a small area of melted snow. A male was also using this patch, as was a male Wheatear.
A male Whinchat was then seen perched on some orange netting and more Water Pipits and Black Redstarts were seen. It was at this point that a large bird of prey was seen flying alongside the mountains; a Lammergeier!
We were obviously high enough up to be roughly on the same level as this vulture and we watched it as it cruised alongside the mountains before lost to sight. However, a little later it was seen again.
A Dipper was seen along one of the mountain streams and both Carrion Crow and Raven (2) were seen too. A Short-toed Eagle then flew along the wooded mountain sides and perched on the top of a pine. Crag Martins and a Mistle Thrush were also recorded here, before heading back towards Salinas De Sin; Cerler was a really good place to visit.
At Eriste a Mute Swan and Goldfinch were seen and at a Gorge (a potential Wallcreeper site, but none seen) Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle and an Egyptian and Griffon Vultures soared above us.
Yet another Short-toed Eagle was seen along the A138 towards Salinas De Sin, ending another very productive, successful and enjoyable day. After some refreshments at the local bar we retired to bed, to spend our last night here, before heading in a southerly direction in the morning.
9th May
A Raven, 6 Griffon Vultures and a pair of Black Redstarts were seen before we left Salinas De Sin and headed out in the general direction of Ainsa.
The A1229 from Ainsa to Arcusa provided some interesting sightings, serenaded along the stretch of road by Nightingales, of which at least 30 were heard!
A route on minor roads was then taken in the general area of the Sierra De Guara, basically exploring anywhere that had a good Natural History potential.
Several Catalonian Wall Lizards Podarcis liolepis
were seen, mostly resting on pieces of wood and a good selection of birds were recorded including: Black Kite, Hoopoe, Golden Oriole, Barn Swallow, Crested Lark, House Sparrow, Stonechat, Yellowhammer, Willow Warbler, Carrion Crow, Cirl Bunting, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Wren, Goldfinch, Woodlark and a Red Kite overhead were all good to see.
The area’s avian fauna continued with Stonechat, Northern Wheatear, Bee-eater, Cuckoo, Blackbird, Spotless Starling, Corn Bunting, Raven and ‘Common’ Swift before a ‘small broad-looking’ Lizard with a fast zigzagging gait ran across the road and into cover. What this lizard was is very difficult to determine, due to the briefness of the sighting, but could well have been a Gecko species.
A ‘Common’ Kestrel was then seen, followed by Corn Bunting, Short-toed Eagle, Linnet and 2 Red-rumped Swallows.
Now along the A2205, various stops found a variety of insects, including A Sand Wasp species, Ant species, Groundhopper species, Grasshopper species (with a red wing-flash, when it flew) and a faded Baton Blue Pseudophilotes baton.
Jason found a rather striking looking beetle on a post, which appears to be a Tropinota (Rose Beetle) species, but as with most of the insects found here, identification to species level is difficult.
Birds of prey continued to be seen with Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle, Red Kite and a Common Buzzard. Turtle Dove, Alpine Swift and House Martin were also seen.
We then came upon a place along the A1230 where a bridge crossed the Rio Isuala, which was to be a very productive spot.
Nightingales sang here as did a Blackcap and Jason saw a Kingfisher over the clear turquoise running Rio.
A walk along the side of the Rio found a wide variety of insects, including Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum
and a Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra, both of which avoided having their photograph taken!
Booted Eagle, Griffon Vulture and Common Buzzard were seen overhead and the calls of Bee-eaters could be heard nearby. Somewhat of a surprise was the song of a Savi’s Warbler coming from the mountain side ‘rough scrub’ and Jason saw a Grey Wagtail along the river.
A Red-rumped Swallow passed over followed by the discovery Moroccan Orange-tip Anthocharis belia. More butterflies were found with an Adonis Blue Lysandra bellargus, Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni
Western Dappled White Euchloe crameri, 2 Skipper species and a Fritillary species.
A Bee-fly species and A Large Psammodromus Psammodromus algirus
wrapped up a very enjoyable visit to this area both sides along the river.
At Santa Cillia, a large Moth was found dead. This was a Giant Peacock Moth Saturnia pyri. Although, it was good to see one of these impressive moths, the thought of seeing one living was far more desirable.
A large ‘Grasshopper’ was also found here in a tree, which after several attempts to photograph it precariously balanced on a fence resulted in images, which enabled it to be identified as an Egyptian Grasshopper Anacridium aegyptium. One of the recognisable field marks on this variable large grasshopper is the vertical black stripes down its eyes. A Violet Carpenter Bee was also seen here.
Corn Bunting, White Wagtail and Nightingale were also recorded here, before leaving Sant Cillia seeing Woodchat Shrike, Serin, Common Buzzard and Black Kite and hearing a Golden Oriole.
As we headed to our hotel for the night at Fuentes de Ebro, we stopped off at a Nature Reserve; Los Galachos Del Ebro.
Following the trails around the reserve, leading to a few hides, the reports on this reserve failed to live up to expectation. However, a bit of exploring found a few things of interest.
Coot, Moorhen, Mallard and Marsh Harrier suggested being back in Norfolk, but a Black Kite, White Stork, a brief rendition of Great Reed Warbler and Nightingale song, 2 Spotless Starlings, 2 Bee-eaters, Common Swift and Barn Swallow were enough to underline a more Mediterranean terrain! Catalonian Wall Lizard Podarcis liolepis
and several Blue-tailed Damselflies Ischnura elegans
added to the fauna.
At Fuentes de Ebro, 6 Cattle Egrets were seen, a Black Kite and a White Stork’s nest, before finding our rearranged accommodation (after some flooding to the previous designated hotel!) at Hotel Texas Fuentes de Ebro, which Jason described as a ‘truck-stop’!
Still, a few beers and a meal (where Jason actually ate a food item consisting of cheese, which he hates and will not eat!?) in the bar and dining room were reasonable enough and I had a comfortable night in the room provided. However, Jason unfortunately did not experience the same and was up for most of the night due to a barking dog in the adjacent apartment and general noise. He told me the following morning that he was hoping I would knock on his door, suggesting an early start to Belchite, after experiencing similar, but I hadn’t called round!
10th May
The Belchite Plains were our destination today and despite the overcast and windy conditions our expectations were high, but tempered with caution; remembering a passage from the Crossbill Guide to the Spanish Pyrenees, which suggested the original habitat was not the same anymore!
Two Bee-eaters were good to see, as was a Rabbit, but birds were far from obvious and it soon became apparent that the significant change from the original plains to agriculture had taken its toll.
However, we pressed on exploring every accessible track and were finally rewarded by the unique song of a Dupont’s Lark. Despite considerable effort we could not actually see the lark, but at least we had recorded it for the area.
A Lesser Short-toed Lark was seen out on a sandy track, collecting nest material and a Calandra Lark was also seen and heard singing, but the apparent abundance of lark species was not apparent on this particular day, if indeed the numbers cited still exist here in this changed and changing landscape.
A Common Kestrel, 3 Red-legged Partridges and Swallows winging their way across the area followed.
Two Ravens were seen before heading out along the CP09, where a Fox crossed the road. 3 Collared Doves and a Black Kite were seen as we headed (earlier than planned, after deciding to ‘cut our losses’) for the Ebro Delta.
We were staying at an apartment in Deltebre, which was more than adequate for our requirements, with a huge TV, not that there was anything really to watch and indeed our time here was for other activities.
An exploration of the immediate area ensued, which was basically some extra time here (resulting from the short time period spent at Belchite) driving along the accessible tracks and roads that crossed the rice paddy fields. If the next two days here were anything like what the afternoon provided we were in for a treat!
One of the first birds we saw was a new species for us both; a Slender-billed Gull, flying over the paddies. Approximately 50 Curlew Sandpipers and 150 Glossy Ibis were seen, followed by Black-winged Stilt and both a Cattle and Little Egret.
The weather conditions were still very overcast and we hoped we would have better light during the next two days in order to see these species in their full glory and to photographically record better images. Still, there was so much to see and places to explore, some cloudy weather was not about to thwart our progress!
2 Turtle Doves, Gull-billed Tern, Yellow-legged Gull and Mallard were added to the Ebro species list, as was our first Audouin’s Gull here. Black-headed Gull, House Sparrow, Spotless Starling, Collared Dove and a Whiskered Tern and mating Black-winged Stilts were all seen as we followed the tracks, stopping at various points.
The sun began to appear through the clouds and Common Swifts were overhead and a Common Sandpiper and a Grey Heron followed. Herons were very much in evidence here but I was not expecting to see 3 Squacco Herons during our first visit (one catching a Crayfish sp.) and a Purple Heron were then added to the heron count.
Lesser Black-backed Gull, Greenshank, Coot, Magpie were seen before driving alongside an irrigation channel, now in the sunshine.
At the very least were 500 Sand Martins hunting insects over the water courses and 20-30 Yellow Wagtails were feeding along the bank. The majority of the Yellow Wagtails found here suggest the race Motacilla flava thunbergi
with at least one M.f. feldegg. However, polymorphic species, such as the flava wagtails are very variable.
6 Little Ringed Plovers, 2 Common Sandpipers and a Wood Sandpiper were spotted before a Great White Egret completed the ‘egret hat-trick’.
Two more Squacco Herons were seen in the late afternoon before having a look near the river, where several Blue-tailed Damselflies were found.
More time was spent photographing many of the species already encountered, now in the sunshine; a great introduction to the Ebro Delta’s wildlife.
After a shower, we found a nice little restaurant and after a few beers (coffee in Jase’s case) and a good meal we returned to our apartment, looking forward to the following day.
11th May
The day dawned and we continued our exploration of the Ebro Delta, with the first birds being Black-winged Stilt, Glossy Ibis and 3 Squacco Herons in flight together! 2 Little Ringed Plovers, Whiskered Tern and an Audouin’s Gull bathing followed.
The area was also great for Flamingos with flocks of Greater Flamingos flying over the delta with the mountains as a backdrop.
A nesting colony, of Audouin’s Gulls was here and a Barn Swallow posed for photos, whilst Greater Flamingos flying across the sea made for some great images. Red Crested Pochard was also seen and more and more opportunities to see and indeed photograph Greater Flamingos were presented to us.
A Mediterranean Gull flew over, a Grey Heron was seen and both male and female Black-tailed Skimmers were found. A Purple Heron and more Black-winged Stilts and Greater Flamingos were seen and a Common Tern hovered over the water in its search for food.
A Crested Lark was seen along one of the dusty tracks and I then noticed a large bird perched on some telegraph wires; an Osprey. The Osprey caught a fish, which looked like a Mullet and then proceeded to consume it whilst perched on a telegraph pole. A Common Sandpiper was seen during the Osprey observation and more photo opportunities followed with a Purple Heron, a hunting Little Tern and more flamingos!
A nesting colony of Common Terns was viewed from behind a viewing screen and also here were Avocet and Shelduck before arriving at an observation tower, overlooking the marshes.
Gull-billed Tern were here along with singing Reed and Great Reed Warblers, a calling Common Cuckoo and the most Purple Gallinules I have ever seen in view at the same time; at one point there must have been at least six!
A Night Heron flew over and there were brief views of a Little Bittern, whilst a Great White Egret searched for prey and Cattle Egrets added to the Herons present.
A Chiffchaff was in the bushes and so was a Zitting Cisticola before spotting 2 Slender-billed Gulls on one of the lagoons.
Green Sandpiper, Crested Lark, 2 Yellow-legged Gulls, Woodchat Shrike and Spotted Flycatcher were also recorded in the area, before paying a visit to the beach, where a Sanderling, Gannet and a Sandwich Tern flew past over the sea.
A Snail species was found on the way back from the beach (once more in the area of the tower) and a Purple Heron was walking along the road!
Kentish Plover, Savi’s Warbler, Hoopoe, Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Gadwall, 2 Mediterranean Gulls, White Stork, Turtle Dove were all encountered on the return journey, plus more wonderful views of a Purple Gallinule; in flight and another being chased off by a Coot!
A Gull-billed Tern was seen carrying a Crayfish sp. and some more great views of Little, Squacco and Cattle Egret, Purple and Grey Heron, Glossy Ibis, Audouin’s Gull, Crested Lark, Black-winged Stilt, Greater Flamingo, Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava iberiae
Kentish Plover, Yellow-legged Gull, Common and Whiskered Terns and a Caspian Tern all lit up nicely in the sunshine. Another great day at the Ebro!
12th May
The seventh and final day of our visit to Spain was again spent in the Ebro Delta, before heading towards the airport for our flight back to the UK.
The day began with 30 Glossy Ibis together, Whiskered Tern, Black-winged Stilt, Mallard, Coot, Audouin’s Gull and Gull-billed Tern.
Some of the egret contingent followed, with Squacco and Purple Herons and Little Egret and both Great Reed and Reed Warblers were singing near the area known as Bassa de L’Alfacada with the screen to observe the nesting Common Terns.
Shelduck and Avocet were once again present here, a Yellow Wagtail possibly Motacilla flava cinereocapilla
was collecting nest material and a Crested Lark was also seen. On the way to the tower, 3 Red Crested Pochard flew over.
Once again from the tower, there were at least 8 Purple Gallinules out on the marsh and Great White Egret, Zitting Cisticola and Greater Flamingo were also seen. A Night Heron flew over and a Squacco Heron was out on the marsh.
Yellow-legged Gull, Yellow Wagtail sp., Black-winged Stilt and Whiskered Tern followed and it was a problem knowing where to look (never mind where to point the camera!), with so many ‘Mediterranean species’ on show.
3 Slender-billed Gulls were seen before leaving the tower and a Purple Heron was on the road again!
Once more amongst the rice paddies a Cattle Egret, Great White and Little Egrets were encountered, as were 10 Ringed Plovers, 6 Little Stints and a Common Redshank and a Slender-billed Gull posed for photos as it preened.
Sand Martins were settling on the road, House Sparrows were around the buildings and Northern Wheatear, 3 Spotted Flycatchers and a handsome Iberian Yellow Wagtail M.f iberiae
perched on top of a sign were seen.
At the Salines de la Tancada, Little and Whiskered Terns were present and of course Greater Flamingos. Savi’s Great Reed and Reed Warblers were all heard singing, as was a Zitting Cisticola.
A female Common Redstart gave us another avian species for the trip, before bidding farewell to the Ebro Delta and heading back to drop the jeep off at the car hire, before being taken to Barcelona Airport and our flight back to the UK.
An absolutely wonderful seven days in North and East Spain and great thanks are due to my friend Jason who booked the trip, did all of the driving and was great company. Also, thanks to Ken Saul for his help with the Moth identification and Mike Linley and David Donaire for their invaluable aid in identifying the Lizard species seen.
(25th March-4th April)
Departure and arrival…...
One of the main reasons for choosing City College Norwich as the place to undertake a degree was that every two years there was a Tropical Ecology and Management Field Trip to Kenya.
On Thursday 25th March 1999 the party from City College met at Heathrow airport and the lifetime ambition to visit Africa was underway. The overnight flight to Nairobi was approximately 12 hours and although the drinks were free it was a long haul, not helped by the non-smoking rule. Needless to say, the nicotine inhaler came into its own!
The following morning (26th March) the plane touched down at Nairobi airport. The truck, which was to be our transport during the trip, was finally located. Not the four-wheel drive vehicle anticipated and certainly not luxury travel, but this was Africa.
Young boys soon gathered round and insisted on taking the luggage to the truck. However, any ideas about the gesture being altruistic were soon dispelled when they held out their hands for payment, which roughly amounted to 50p Lest it be forgotten, in a third world country, ’The struggle for existence’ is not just confined to species, other than ourselves!
Journey to Marich, Elementita and the ‘chicken-man’…...
The truck and its passengers left Nairobi airport and headed north. Driving through Nairobi there were several men lying on the grass, apparently asleep, but there was no discernible sign of breathing!
Space on the truck was very limited once all the rucksacks etc had been loaded it was pretty cramped to say the least. The open sides of the vehicle were great for viewing wildlife en-route, but the fumes from other vehicles (obviously not covered by an MOT emissions test) blowing into the truck were not pleasant.
Several stops were made on the journey. These included stopping to stock up on bottled water and at other various points, mainly when there was a majority decision on an imminent ‘call of nature’!
We passed over the well sign-posted equator but there was not time to stop.
The main break in the journey was at Lake Elementita, where a walk down the track to the lake edge ensued. A small flock of Great White Pelicans were on the lake and Yellow-billed Stork and 4 Blacksmith Lapwings were seen here. However, all too soon it was time to leave, but not before another reminder of the poverty here, with small children asking for money.
All along the route, people smiled, waved and shouted ‘Jambo’ (Swahili for hello). Unbelievable, when you consider how the 'whites' have treated the people here. Cynically speaking, this behaviour could be seen as being a way in which to obtain some kind of wealth, but personally throughout the trip it was found that the people here were genuinely warm and friendly and always cheerful, although there is no doubt that any help would be gratefully received.
Later during the afternoon, Peter, our driver stopped at a roadside market to buy provisions. Whilst waiting in the truck an elderly man was walking down the road talking to his self. His dishevelled appearance, complete with two dead chickens slung over his shoulder resembled an African version of Worzel Gummage. After stopping at the roadside to throw stones at passing people on bicycles, still talking to himself he wandered towards the truck. This was somewhat alarming, due to the fact that no previous experience existed in how to deal with such an individual. Fortunately, at that point everybody arrived back at the truck and the journey continued.
As darkness fell, the wind speed increased and unbelievably it started to rain. The canvas flaps on the side of the truck were rolled down, but unable to get a coat from the rucksack (due to it being under many others) made the rest of the journey very cold and uncomfortable. Also along the way at certain points there were ominous-looking metal toothed bars on one side of the road. Their exact purpose remains a mystery, but it was related via Peter that there were certain places, which were very dangerous to stop and not because of any wildlife!
After some difficulty with the directions, Marich Pass Field Studies Centre (in the far north of western Kenya, within the Cherangani hills, close to the Uganda border) was finally reached at approximately 23.00. After nearly being poisoned by exhaust fumes and freezing to death, this came as somewhat of a relief. The truck was unloaded and reunited with our rucksacks, were shown to the accommodation, which was one of several round straw-roofed mud huts.
Marich Pass, Weaver birds, unfamiliar amenities and the missing goat …...
There was no need for an alarm clock at Marich Pass (27th) the dawn chorus took care of that! A wander around the grounds of the field study centre (situated on the banks of the Weiwei River, with huts in between the trees) found a wide variety of birds, which included: Lemon Dove, African Grey, Crowned and Red-billed Hornbills, Brown Parrot, Rupell’s Long-tailed Starling, African Pied Wagtail, Red-headed Malimbe, Common Bulbul and Double-toothed Barbet.
Also in the grounds, particularly around the hole dug for burying waste were River Monitors, with up to six of these large lizards patrolling the waste site. The only snake species of the trip was seen being pursued by Pocock women yielding twig brooms. Despite not being a great lover of snakes, the species appeared to resemble a type of tree snake.
After breakfast it was off to Marich airfield to make a start on producing a report on ‘Colony Nest-site Preference of the White-browed Sparrow Weavers'.
Hardly identifiable as an airfield, the area consisted of scrub and bush, with the acacias providing nest sites for the weavers. It became very hot here, as the day progressed and even the flies appeared to be seeking shelter under the Acacias.
During the 27th and 28th March, whilst undertaking the Weaver bird project, Marich airfield produced a good and interesting selection of species.
A familiar call, heard many times on TV drew attention to an African Fish Eagle flying over and a ‘tail-less’ looking bird of prey was instantly identified as a Bateleur. Tawny Eagle and Egyptian Vulture were also seen here and similar to our (European) shrikes, a Grey-headed Bush Shrike and Common Fiscal were seen. A Kingfisher perched in a tree, away from water was an interesting sight, the species being a Striped Kingfisher. D’anaud’s Barbets were seen and our guide pointed out the underground nest holes which are excavated by the barbets.
Two Little Bee-eaters allowed reasonably close approach and some fairly good photos were taken. However, whilst going through the bush two ticks (unbeknown to me) attached themselves to my face and luckily one of the party spotted them and removed them, which was fortunate, as one was near my eye. If this was not enough, an Acacia thorn nearly went through my foot and would have done if my full weight had have been put on it.
En-route to the airfield a rather interesting swampy area had been passed and Peter our driver was good enough to stop on the way back and allow some exploration of the area. A magnificent Saddle-billed Stork was seen here, apparently quite a rare bird. A Great White Egret was also seen as were Hamerkop, White-throated Bee-eater and Dark-chanting Goshawk.
Back at the field centre, basic needs warranted the use of two unconventional (at least from a Western perspective) amenities. The first of these was the toilet facilities, which were ‘long-drop toilets’. These consisted of a deep hole with a toilet seat set on top, individually set out in a row of cubicles. It was certainly a first, to go to the ‘bathroom’ and watch lizards climbing up the door posts!
Apparently, on a previous visit to the centre one individual had a bat fly out of the toilet! Hope he was not sat down at the time! On another occasion (on a previous visit) one of my lecturers ventured out to the toilet at night and found what he thought was the carpet moving. The fact was that there was no carpet and on switching his torch on, found the floor covered with cockroaches. With no lighting around the centre, venturing out to the toilet at night did not seem to be a good idea, if it could be avoided.
The second amenity was the showers. Set out in a row of concrete cubicles, each one had a shower head and a drainage hole in the concrete floor. Needless to say, there was no hot water, but you could watch the wildlife while having a shower, as there was no roof. It is somewhat unnerving to see Baboons in the nearby trees whilst in a vulnerable state!
Earlier in the day, one of the girls on the trip had asked why a goat had been tied to a tree, outside the centre. I quipped that it would not be there later and I was not surprised to find that on arriving for tea, the goat was no longer present. It somewhat reminded me of the scene in Jurassic Park! However, having elected for the vegetarian option, during the trip after disturbing tales of tape worms in goat meat the goat’s disappearance was not a personal concern, with respect to what was on the menu.
After tea (28th March), an African Scop’s Owl was heard and located in the wood. After partaking in the local beverage, a lager called ’Tusker’ it was time to retire.
A special birthday, Tusker, swamps and foreboding traditions…...
On the day of my 40th birthday (29th March) at first light, a spot of bird-watching from the edge of the woodland, overlooking the Cherangani hills was undertaken.
After breakfast a look along the river found a Giant Kingfisher hovering over the water. This was a big Kingfisher (15-17 inches), about the size of a crow and was a good bird to see, as it is an uncommon species (Zimmerman et al
(1999) pp.389, Birds of Kenya and Northern Tanzania). Brown Parrot, African Mourning Dove, Black-headed Weaver and Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling were seen around the field centre, before setting off to the airfield to carry on with the weaver bird project.
Helmeted Guinea fowl, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Blue-naped Mousebird, Black-headed Bush Shrike and White-headed Buffalo Weaver were seen in the area around the airfield, as were Dik Diks.
Stopping of at the ‘swamp’ Dark-chanting Goshawk, White-cheeked Turaco and White-throated Bee-eater were seen in the general area, but more linked to the swamp were Pygmy Kingfisher, Green-backed Heron, Yellow-billed Stork, Hamerkop and Black-headed Heron.
A small frog and 2 species of dragonfly were found and after some members of the party had ventured close to the water’s edge a Crocodile was seen in the water! Warthog were also seen here, in an area several members of the trip (including myself) would have liked to have spent more time in.
After tea I was presented with a tub of ice cream, for my birthday. A good choice, as everyone got to share it! A game where you had to guess the identity of someone famous, written on a rizla paper attached to the forehead ensued and along with copious amounts of Tusker, a good time was had by all.
During the evening’s entertainment, Peter, our driver asked to see me and announced that there was a local tradition when someone had a birthday. Drinking goat’s blood or some other activity alien to western culture came to mind. However, it came as somewhat of a relief when the tradition was nothing more than being bought a pint. This was the first time I had really had a chance to have a conversation with Peter and found the Masai cultural differences, especially family values and traditions very interesting. This also led to a friendship with Peter and with our guide Joseph during the rest of the trip.
A Croc in the Weiwei…...
After breakfast on the 30th March an exploration of the opposite side of the river Weiwei was undertaken. The River Weiwei had a fairly fast flow to it but was relatively shallow and wading across it was not too problematic.
Pied Kingfisher, Hamerkop and Common Sandpiper were seen and a Green-backed Heron flew up from a sandy spit on the bend of the river and flew into the bushes on the opposite bank. Deciding to wait and see if it returned, in order to try and get some shots of it, my female companion and I used the raised bank as cover and waited.
After a while a look back at the spit, by peering over the bank did not find the heron, but a twelve foot Croc was there! Deciding to get closer to get some photos of it I approached the croc, but it was having none of it and slipped into the water and headed down river. A few photos were taken but unfortunately the direction in which the croc seemed to be heading was the stretch of the river where we had to wade through to get back to the field centre!
Despite the floundering and cries of ‘Save me from the croc’ from my companion, who was genuinely scared (not surprisingly I guess) and was holding on to me for grim death, we made it safely back to the field centre. However, this was a story which was constantly retold by her for several years to come.
Turkana and an elephant extravaganza…...
With tales of a sleeping bag being dragged off a UEA student by a Hyena and armed bandits coming across the border, the apparently risk-laden voluntary opportunity to camp overnight in South Turkana with armed guards did not, unfortunately come to fruition. However, during the afternoon a trip to track Elephants through the bush, in Turkana was arranged.
En-route to South Turkana, the first Marabou and Wooly-necked Storks (approximately 8) were seen as was a Black-bellied Bustard. A Ground Squirrel and Dik Diks were also seen.
At Turkana we were met at the ranger station and escorted by two armed rangers through the bush. The acacia bush was difficult to get through, without getting ripped to shreds. However, this did not seem to be a problem to our ranger guides and by watching and learning how they made their way, apparently unscathed through the acacias eventually made progress both quicker and easier.
Eventually our guides spotted a herd of Elephants, at distance moving through the bush. I guess this is something which most people only dream of, but the sight of our first Elephants was now a reality.
It has been remarked upon several times in the past, how such a large animal can disappear in the bush, but that is exactly what happened. David Blaine eat your heart out!
The encounter with Elephants was far from over. The truck was parked along one of the roads and we were told not to get out. Apparently, the Elephants crossed this particular stretch of road as a matter of daily routine and the wait began with anticipation.
As light began to fade, without warning (no sound was heard of any approach) a young elephant ran across the road, right behind the truck. Others followed, both behind and in front of our position. We were, in essence, surrounded by elephants with a range of ages including some small calves, all quietly crossing the road. To say that the adrenaline was pumping is an understatement - F…… amazing!
Football, tribal dances and farewells…...
The last day at Marich Pass (31st March) was to be a very eventful day, with a football match planned and an evening farewell celebration.
Nests of both African Hawk Eagle and Brown Parrot were observed in the woodland, surrounding the field centre and Common Camaroptera and both African Grey and Red-billed Hornbills were identified.
The local Pocock people held a market, just up river and all manner of pots and dishes carved out of wood were on sale at ridiculously low prices. Then it was back to the field centre to get ready for the football match.
A short journey up the road was made to the ‘football pitch’, with the football, which had been stitched together with a needle and thread the previous evening. A small metal framed goal was at either end of the ‘pitch’, while the pitch itself was completely devoid of grass, but not without Acacia thorns and stones! It was at this point that falling over onto the ground here was considered not to be a desirable option.
After the pre-match team photo, the game began. The Pocock team was very much fitter than the motley crew from City College and that factor soon began to tell. Some of their players only had one trainer on and it was a strange experience being pursued down the wing by someone wearing one training shoe!
The inevitable finally happened and yours truly hit the deck. With blood streaming from scratches on my legs, the game was over for me and i was substituted by Peter our driver. After the antiseptic had been applied, the rest of the match was watched from the sidelines.
A small boy came over to me and asked if I could help him. Knowing that I couldn’t and having to say no, was one of the hardest things I have ever had to do.
The match ended and invariably City College lost, hands down. The score did not really matter, because despite the injury incurred it was a great experience.
Back at Marich, a meal in the main hall at the field centre with the other guests was held, complete with a fly-past from a bat, fluttering around above our heads. This was followed by an event that was unforgettable!
Chairs had been arranged around a bonfire, where the Pocock people were to perform tribal dances for us. Lights from torches (as in flames) suddenly appeared from the woodland to our right and chanting voices were heard, progressively getting louder, as the Pocock people approached. It was just like something out of a Tarzan adventure!
I enquired if the Pococks got you up to dance, to which my lecturer Roger replied ‘Oh yes.’ I was quite pleased about this, as I had told my children Emma and Aiden before I left, that if I got the chance I would (uncharacteristically) dance with the Masai.
Sure enough, out of the line of the dancing tribe a woman took me by the hand and before I knew it, was doing something resembling the conga around the fire followed by a fertility dance! Some of the men related to me that they had played football against us and the whole thing was like a get-together of old friends. Although this had not been a dance with the Masai, it was a very memorable day and indeed evening; something, which words cannot do justice too. As it is often said, ‘you had to be there’!
Chesegon market and hospice gifts…...
During the stay at Marich Pass there were two other events that occurred.
A visit to the twice weekly market at nearby Chesegon was made. All manner of items were on sale here, including flip-flops made from old car tires and lengths of woven fabrics. We were advised not to take any photos here, as the local people had superstitions, with respect to having their image captured on film. However, while here some kind of dispute had broken out and apparently a fight (with possibly fatal consequences) was on the cards. Therefore our guide, who had aided us with the bartering system, advised us to leave!
During the planning of the trip to Kenya, we were asked to take pencils and paper etc which would be taken to a local hospice, near Marich Pass during our stay there. My contribution was several small teddy bears, no longer required by my then partner’s children.
Returning to the field centre after some more data gathering for the weaver bird project at the airfield, I found one of the women on the trip sitting outside her hut with her head in her hands, obviously very upset.
On enquiring what was up, she replied that she did not want to talk about it and for me to please go-away. I respected her wishes and left. But it was not till later that I found out why she was so upset. Apparently during the visit to the hospice, one of the teddy bears had fallen out of the bag and the children’s eyes lit up in a way, which most western cultures would not understand. The whole visit there had been very upsetting. Probably because seeing the happiness a small furry toy could bring to a child with a terminal illness (mainly aides) was too much to bear. Although I would not turn away from facing such issues, I was relieved, in a way that I did not go, as I may have found the situation as/or more upsetting than my friend did. If ever one needed reminding, Africa is not just a beautiful country, it also has a disturbing dark side, which the average television viewer does not see, or maybe would rather not see!
Kakamega-a brief rain forest experience…...
After a photo shoot with a Pocock woman in full tribal dress (1st April), it was time to leave Marich Pass and head for Kakamega.
Originally, there was going to be an overnight camp at Kakamega, but this had been thwarted by the truck not being equipped with camping gear. The visit to the last significant remaining fragment of equatorial rain forest in East Africa, was to be a brief one and we were almost hurriedly guided round the prescribed route. However, to experience a rain forest environment was a privilege.
Parasitic Strangler Figs encompassed some of the towering trees and many different species of fungi were on the forest floor. Colobus Monkeys were seen distantly in the canopy and impressive Black and White Casqued Hornbills were also seen.
From a wooden tower, the Nandi Escarpment was viewed. Certain areas were devoid of trees and apparently the reason for this is still not clearly understood. Little Bee-eaters and Common Stonechat were seen here as were a Yellow-throated Tinkerbird and a pair of Black-throated Wattle-eyes. Several species of butterflies were seen, but due to the length of our visit, identification of never before encountered species was almost impossible.
Journey to the Mara, bartering and the camp by the river…...
Concerned about the possibility of rain, making progress difficult, Peter suggested that it was time to get under way and we headed towards the Masai Mara.
En-route we passed by Lake Victoria. Although only sections of the lake could be seen, there was no disguising the immensity of the lake. Black-shouldered Kites were regularly seen near the lake, perched on posts and overhead wires.
Having stopped overnight in a ‘hotel complex’ (the exact location of which, is now unclear and was arranged at the last minute) the journey continued towards the Mara (2nd April).
En-route Black-crowned Night Heron, European Bee-eater, Long-tailed Fiscal, Abdim’s Stork (flock) and a species of Widowbird were seen.
After stopping off at Narok for supplies (mainly beer!) a look round a ’shop’ on the edge of the Mara was like entering Aladdin’s cave. Carved animals were everywhere, as well as shields, spears and other tourist orientated objects.
It was not long before a ’member of staff’ was on the scene, trying to facilitate a purchase. This was carried out with a certain amount of persistence followed by debating the price by the bartering system. To the uninitiated there is a temptation to agree a price too early, brought about by our cultural differences e.g. that’s the price so that is what you pay and a certain amount of guilt, on the basis that this is a third world country. While all that may play a part in the negotiations and the latter is a valid point, these guys are professionals and would not be out of place on the stock market!
Nearing the Masai Mara, children were tending goat herds, but soon larger animals were encountered when a small herd of Zebra and Wildebeest were seen.
Just before a group of bushes, Peter stopped the truck and started a conversation in Swahili with Joseph. I enquired into what the problem was and Peter explained that if the truck got stuck in the mud near the bushes (which had happened on several occasions already), there could be a danger from lions, if they happened to be lying up there. What happened next was unreal. After hunting around the cab for some empty coke bottles, Peter and Joseph got out of the truck and walked towards the bushes chinking the bottles and calling out. I must admit, I wanted to go with them and ignoring health and safety was hanging out of the cab door, watching the episode unfold. As it was, no lions appeared and we continued on our way. Nevertheless, an unforgettable moment!
Soon the Acacia scrub opened out into open savanna grassland, where the first Cheetah was seen, albeit at a considerable distance away.
Stopping at the check point into the game reserve, the truck was inundated with Masai women selling carved animals, bangles and necklaces. They passed the goods up into the truck for inspection, always remembering exactly what they had handed over. The prices for these goods were ridiculously cheap and no-one even considered bartering. For instance a carved Giraffe standing a foot high was the equivalent of about a pound!
The truck eventually continued on to our base for the next few days, a camp beside the Mara River.
Surprising amenities and visitor to the sugar bowl…...
The expectations of the camp were that they would be even more basic than that of Marich Pass Field Centre, but the reality was far removed. There were large two-man tents equipped with comfortable beds and lights, albeit candles. At least I could see to write notes up! Outside there was a table with washing facilities and towels, which were refreshed every morning.
The shower was contained in a PVC cubicle with a zip up the front. The shower itself had a shower head attached to a bucket, which on request from Richard would be filled with warm water, luxury! However, I was somewhat apprehensive about the toilet facilities; after all we were in the middle of nowhere, as such.
After dinner that evening and on returning to the tent, the call of nature inevitably beckoned. Venturing out of the tent, I expected total darkness, but there were lanterns in the trees and standing there on guard was a Masai carrying a spear, dressed in red, which gave an overwhelming sense of assurance and safety. The toilet was also enclosed in a PVC cubicle with a zip up the front, but when opened it revealed something unprecedented; a real flushing toilet, complete with toilet paper!
A long tent with tables covered in white table cloths was where we had breakfast and dinner. Coffee was on tap all day, courtesy of a large tea urn and despite when you got near the bottom of the urn it had the consistency of liquid tar, the coffee was great. However, on one occasion the need to have sugar was bypassed when a loud noise reminiscent of a bomber aircraft revealed a large dung beetle flying. The sound stopped, as the beetle dropped into the sugar bowl. Love Coleoptera, but not with coffee, at least not with one that clears up after elephants!
Grassland riches, rites of passage and Tilapia for tea…...
Over the next two days (3rd and 4th April) game drives and exploration of the Masai Mara took place. Now in the front of the truck with Peter and Joseph the experience was about to become even better and after breakfast on the 3rd April a game drive ensued in the Masai Mara game reserve.
The first Elephants were seen, with a herd of varying ages and a close encounter with a Giraffe feeding on acacia. Small herds of Thompson’s and Grant’s gazelle and Impala represented the smaller antelopes, while Cokes Hartebeest and Topi represented the larger members of the antelope family.
Colourful lizards, floating croc and hungry monkeys…...
Deciding to miss breakfast (4th), for no more reason than I was not hungry, prompted some concern, but it was Peter that came to enquire about my absence! However, I had missed a Baboon, which had descended on the dining table, its footprints still on the white tablecloth. After a cup of coffee it was off to the Mara River on the Kenya-Tanzania border.
An armed ranger was on guard here as the river held Crocodiles and Hippos. Nevertheless I ventured down to the edge of the river to get closer to a croc, which just had its head on show. A few Hippos were on the far side of the river as were a couple of crocs out of the water on the muddy bank. A Bateleur Eagle was perched in the top of a tree and I was summoned to see a very colourful lizard, which was an Agama.
Back at the edge of the Mara my attention was drawn to a large croc drifting down the river. It was quite a few photos later before I realised that it was dead, much to my embarrassment. Still, shoot first, ask questions later.
Lunch was given out, but I was far more interested in photographing Vervet Monkeys, one of which was heading cautiously, but with intent towards me, far more interested in my lunch than I was. Soon and all too soon it was time to leave what was a fantastic habitat, in which I could have happily spent all day.
Baboons were seen stalking the grasslands and a Black-backed Jackal also. More Thompson’s and Grants Gazelles, Topi, Hartebeest and Impala were seen and a Hyena, with its familiar gait and several Warhogs.
Stopping to view a herd of Cape Buffalo (not on my side of the truck) I happened to look out of my open side window to see an immature male Lion about 4 metres away, lying in the shade of an acacia. Lion on one side Buffalo on the other-brilliant.
Up along the dusty road was a series of ‘puddles’ and by the small bow wave it was clear that something was swimming across. Relating this to Peter, he stopped the truck (just imagine the comments in the back of the truck!) and we saw what appeared to be a Terrapin species. After I had taken a shot Peter said he could see it better out of the driver’s side and I passed him the camera and he took a very accomplished photo of the reptile.
Driving further on, I asked Peter to stop again as I had seen a bird I had always wanted to see. A Secretary Bird was hunting in the acacia scrub and although it did not catch any prey, it was a fine sight to see.
Driving through some short-cropped grassland on the way back to the camp a Black-bellied Bustard and a Temminck’s Courser were good birds to see as were several Yellow-throated Longclaws.
After a spell back at camp, in the late afternoon we ventured out in the truck again, to look for Leopard. Unfortunately, there were no signs, despite looking in the trees for a tell-tale tail hanging down. Nevertheless, at the Mara River 20+ Hippos were in the river and were obviously preparing to come ashore and feed, judging by the mouth opening behaviour. More Impala were seen and just before the camp a Hyena was seen.
The food as usual was great, on our last evening at the camp and after tea and a few drinks around the camp fire it was time to retire.
During the morning of the 5th April, a closer look around the camp found some great species of birds. A Ruppell’s Griffon was perched in a nearby tree and a superb African Paradise Flycatcher was seen and a Bat species was hanging up in one of the trees.
Farewell to the Mara and some final bartering…...
After saying our goodbyes, especially to Richard, who had looked after us so well, we left the camp and headed towards Nairobi, stopping at Narok for a last bit of shopping.
Looking around the shop it was not long before a familiar face appeared-the same guy who I had bartered with during the last visit here. Somewhat amazingly, he had remembered me and said that he could do me a good deal. However, by this time I had got the hang of this method of dealing and he was not going to have such an easy time in procuring a sale, this time around!
I had my eye on three carved animals: an elephant, rhino and Cape Buffalo. The price started off at roughly the equivalent of 80 pounds, in US dollars, but I explained that it was our last night and the remaining money I had left (not far from the truth) was for the stay at the hotel, that night and it was too much and walked away. I was pretty sure he would not give up and I was not wrong. The price after more haggling eventually came down to about 8 pounds! But there was more to this deal that was not exactly kosher; at least that’s what I thought at the time.
The shops’ ‘salesman’ told me to take the goods outside and he would meet me by the truck. I was not quite sure about this, but went to the truck with the carved animals. Luckily, Joseph was sitting in the truck and I shared my concerns with him, fearing that at any minute I would be chased down the road by machete-wielding Africans. Joseph told me that this was normal and there was ‘no problem’, a phrase he found amusing and which he always laughed about afterwards. Come to mention it he also found the phrase ‘jiggy jiggy’ rather amusing when he was explaining about relationships.
Anyway, all ended well. I paid for the goods and despite the guy wanting me to buy him another beer the deal was done and the truck departed Narok and continued towards Nairobi.
There was a stop on the way to Nairobi, at a view point where there were great views of part of the Great Rift Valley. It was here that a couple of Rock Hyrax was seen. Amazing to think that these rodent-looking animals are actually related to elephants!
The hotel where we were to spend our final night in Kenya was finally reached sometime in the afternoon. The Mayfair Court Hotel in Nairobi was fantastic, with great rooms, bars and two swimming pools. However, I had a certain amount of guilt, knowing that not a million miles away there was a shanty town, devoid of any such luxuries. In fact, it was as far removed from luxury as you could possibly imagine.
There had been a collection for Peter and Joseph, but I did not get to personally say goodbye to them, something I really wanted to do as they above anyone else had been my friends, guides and my black brothers and had to a great extent contributed to making my experience in Kenya so special.
That night there was a great meal laid on, but all too soon it was time to retire, in order to get up the following day for our flight back to the UK.
After a bit of confusion, regarding the taxis collecting us from the hotel, the party from City College arrived at Nairobi airport and departed for Heathrow.
Although it was nice to get back home, at the time it was with great sadness that I was leaving such a magical continent and I hope that someday I will return.